Heading upstate for autumn hikes and apple picking has long been a seasonal rite of passage for city dwellers looking to trade the relentless noise of the metropolis for the quiet canopy of the Hudson Valley. But beyond the traditional apple orchards, pumpkin patches, and vibrant fall foliage, the region has quietly evolved into a powerhouse for farm-to-table dining. For travelers willing to look past the standard roadside stands, the Catskills offer a surprisingly rich and sophisticated culinary landscape that rivals anything found within the five boroughs.
Mary Anne Porto, an editor at Punch who splits her time between Brooklyn and a cabin in Accord, New York, has spent the past few months immersing herself in the landscape of trees, birds, and cooler air. While many city residents are content to pack their own provisions or rely entirely on the abundant bounty of local farm stands, Porto makes a compelling case for a fully dining-focused excursion. Blending a passion for outdoor recreation like rock climbing with an appreciation for exceptional local ingredients, her weekend itinerary offers a comprehensive look at how the region marries rustic charm with gastronomic ambition.
Day 1: Friday
Beginning the journey from the New York metropolitan area typically involves a vehicle, despite various transit options such as buses to New Paltz or Kingston, Metro-North trains to Poughkeepsie, and Amtrak routes to Hudson. For those driving up via New Jersey, a customary pre-trip stop at Corner Slice for massive, pillowy garlic knots serves as an essential foundation for the road ahead.
The route north often includes a stop at the Storm King Art Center, an expansive outdoor museum where visitors can take in monumental sculptures scattered across rolling fields or catch seasonal open-air concert performances, such as memorable music series featuring experimental ensembles. While museum dining has advanced significantly in recent years, Storm King maintains a welcoming policy that permits visitors to pack their own food and enjoy picnics on the grounds, creating a flexible environment where any provisions are welcome.
As the afternoon progresses further north into New Paltz, travelers are introduced to the distinct local flavor of the region through destinations like Shorties, a self-described neighborhood bar offering a relaxed atmosphere complete with nightly DJs and pinball machines. The menu balances comfort and creativity, featuring standout items such as kimchi-topped hot dogs, green pozole stew, togarashi-rubbed wings, and prosciutto- and pepperoncini-topped nachos, alongside thoughtfully crafted non-alcoholic beverages infused with salted guava juice. For visitors planning an extended stay centered around home cooking, nearby purveyors like Gadaleto’s provide fresh seafood options, while climbing enthusiasts can secure rental gear from Rock & Snow.
Lodging in the Accord area varies widely, accommodating different travel styles through options ranging from rustic cabin rentals and retro-styled motels to high-end boutique properties like Inness. The latter offers a sophisticated restaurant space for group dining, complemented by an outdoor bar where guests can gather around fire pits in Adirondack chairs to enjoy the mountain views. Alternatively, travelers seeking a quiet evening in can procure natural wines from Bluebird Wine Shop and finish the night with local pies and ice cream from the neighboring Accord Market.
Day 2: Saturday
The second day typically begins with coffee and pastries from Black Dot Cafe, setting the stage for outdoor exploration at Minnewaska State Park, which features an extensive network of trails suited for various difficulty levels, or the Mohonk Preserve for dedicated climbers. Both locations place visitors in close proximity to a regional institution: the Mountain Brauhaus, a family-owned German restaurant renowned for its lively atmosphere, generous portions, and authentic ambiance featuring servers in traditional dirndls. Diners frequently find themselves ordering extra loaves of the restaurant’s exceptional pumpernickel bread to take home after enjoying classics like wienerschnitzel, spaetzle, and wheat beer with a slice of lemon.
To work off the hearty lunch, visitors can head to Skate Time, a retro roller rink operated by the team behind Bjorn Qorn. Beyond roller skating beneath the glow of vintage lighting, guests can sample pierogies from Helena’s Specialty Foods, whose brick-and-mortar location in Kerhonkson is traditionally cash-only, making the rink a convenient venue for credit-card users to enjoy the specialty.
As evening approaches, Westwind Orchard in Accord stands out as a premier destination for seasonal dining. Famous for introducing visitors to the profound potential of summer tomatoes through dishes like its celebrated panzanella salad, the orchard provides a quintessential Hudson Valley atmosphere where families gather among apple trees, accompanied occasionally by live music and salsa dancing. The menu focuses on fresh, simple ingredients, featuring seasonal pizzas—such as summer squash and blossom variations—alongside comforting pasta dishes like pappardelle. Operating primarily as a cidery, the establishment also offers traditional cocktails that incorporate regional ingredients, including Negroni Sbagliatos finished with a bubbly cider topper.
Day 3: Sunday
The final leg of the trip shifts north toward Kingston, a historic hub celebrated for its vibrant shopping district filled with antiques, vintage clothing stores, record shops, and independent bookstores like Rough Draft. Mornings often begin with a cortado and frittata from Village Coffee and Goods, followed by a visit to Rosie General, an all-day neighborhood cafe recognized for its meticulous attention to detail, demonstrated by the distinct, in-house-baked breads used for each sandwich variety, including mortadella on baguettes and chile-crisp-topped egg toast on ciabatta or English muffins. The cafe also functions as an ideal spot to pick up edible souvenirs, offering a curated pantry of homemade mustards, pickles, and infused vinegars.
Afternoon excursions often take travelers toward Stissing House, with scenic pit stops along the way such as Zabriskie’s Waterfall near Bard College, an ideal swimming hole and reading spot. For a late-afternoon beverage, C. Cassis offers an innovative take on traditional French blackcurrant liqueurs, serving them in unexpected formats like piña coladas while educating patrons on the nuances of the ingredient.
Evening dining at Stissing House centers around a relaxed waiting area resembling a cozy living room, complete with candles and self-serve peanuts where guests can enjoy martinis before sitting down for a menu featuring ham and pickles, hearty fish pies, and steak. For dessert, travelers often bypass the restaurant’s offerings in favor of a short trip back to Cherries Roadside in Accord for classic vanilla soft-serve ice cream, providing a sweet conclusion to the weekend without the long queues typical of city dessert spots.
For those with extended itineraries, the Hudson Valley offers a deep bench of notable culinary destinations, including Harana Market for inventive Filipino pop-ups and takeout, Eng’s Chinese Restaurant in Kingston for local culinary history, Cafe Mutton in Hudson for adventurous charcuterie, and Kingston Wine Co. or Mirador for specialized wines and sherry paired with pintxos.
