In the bustling landscape of New York City’s dining scene, few openings generate as much anticipation as a new concept from Na:eun Hospitality, the powerhouse behind acclaimed dining destinations like Atomix and Atoboy. Their latest venture, Somssi, situated in the heart of Greenwich Village, has quickly become a focal point for food enthusiasts across the borough. While the restaurant brings a sophisticated culinary vision to its West Village neighborhood, it also refuses to take itself too seriously, striking a delicate balance between meticulous technique and playful indulgence.
At the center of this culinary philosophy is a dish that has taken social media and neighborhood chatter by storm: the triple-layered "Potato Potato Potato" creation. Topped with a decadent crown of caviar, this whimsical preparation has rapidly evolved into the most popular order on the menu. According to managing partner Ahris Kim, the item perfectly encapsulates the restaurant’s broader ethos. As Kim describes the driving philosophy behind Somssi, the goal is straightforward yet ambitious: they aim to serve serious food with serious hospitality, all while maintaining a sense of lighthearted accessibility.
Yet, behind the playful presentation and the caviar-laced surface lies an extraordinary amount of labor. The potato dish stands out as the most rigorous preparation in the Somssi kitchen, requiring an intense operational commitment that sees the staff working through up to 100 pounds of potatoes every single week. Understanding the scale of this effort offers a fascinating glimpse into the rigorous preparation required before the dining room doors open for a night of service.
The journey of the viral potato dish begins with Yukon gold potatoes, which are meticulously processed through a ricer to achieve an ultra-smooth texture. This base is enriched with a heavy hand of cream and butter, transforming the vegetable into a rich, velvety puree. Once blended to perfection, the mixture is carefully portioned and set into molds within the freezer, allowing the logs of potato to firm up. From there, the frozen cylinders are toasted in breadcrumbs to establish a foundational crunch before being wrapped entirely in delicate ribbons of russet potato. Only when an order is placed does this multi-layered creation hit the fryer, emerging hot, crisp, and ready for its luxurious caviar garnish.
The dedication to intricate, time-honored techniques extends well beyond the potato station. Another standout item on the Somssi menu is the ox tongue, a dish that demands immense patience and precision from the kitchen staff. The preparation begins long before service with a rigorous brine that lasts for just over 16 hours. Following this initial curing phase, the large cuts of meat are slow-cooked for four hours in a bath infused with aromatic herbs, savory spices, and rich beef tallow. This extended braising process ensures that the meat achieves a remarkable level of tenderness. Before the ox tongue ever touches the grill for its final sear, the massive cuts are carefully scored by hand, a crucial step that allows the heat to penetrate evenly and creates an exceptional, flavorful crust. When it finally reaches the plate, the tender beef is anchored by a vibrant romesco sauce, complemented by a sharp dollop of wasabi served on the side to cut through the richness.
Creativity at Somssi also takes unexpected turns through the blending of diverse culinary traditions. Consider, for instance, the restaurant’s unique take on the classic schnitzel. Instead of traditional breading, a tender cut of pork loin is coated in a layer of ground shrimp, resulting in a creative hybrid preparation that pays subtle homage to the beloved flavors of traditional shrimp toast. The resulting schnitzel features a thick, deeply crispy fried exterior that is immediately balanced out by a bright, sweet-and-sour plum sauce drizzled over the top. This clever juxtaposition of textures and flavors highlights the kitchen’s willingness to experiment while maintaining a firm grounding in technical execution.
The menu further balances its heavier, comforting dishes with lighter, vibrant options that showcase seasonal brightness. Among these is the scallop crudo, a dish built around delicately pressed scallops. The seafood is arranged with an eye for color and contrast, surrounded by a vibrant strawberry sauce that introduces a gentle sweetness. The dish is then finished with a garnish of tart gooseberries and fresh peppers, adding layers of acidity and a subtle kick to the clean profile of the raw seafood.
For diners and culinary professionals eager to see these elaborate preparations in action, the inner workings of the Somssi kitchen have been documented in depth. The team’s rigorous approach to creating everything from the triple-layered potato bite to the show-stopping grilled tongue dish is featured in a dedicated episode of Mise En Place, offering a rare window into the frantic, highly organized hours leading up to a night of service in one of Greenwich Village’s most talked-about dining rooms.
