When culinary professionals step away from their own line stations, smoke-filled kitchens, and the relentless pressure of service, where do they go to find comfort? For Chef Eric Sze, the creative force and owner behind Brooklyn’s celebrated Taiwanese restaurant Wenwen, the answer is a carefully curated journey across New York City that spans artisanal bakeries, trusted neighborhood butchers, innovative slice shops, and nostalgic dumpling houses. Sze’s weekly routine offers a fascinating glimpse into the palate of a professional chef who appreciates everything from a simple, perfectly balanced baguette sandwich to the intricate, time-honored art of oversized, handmade wontons.
Sze’s day off begins in the borough of Brooklyn, where he starts his morning ritual at Bakeri, a neighborhood staple known for its rustic baked goods and inviting atmosphere. Rather than opting for a traditional heavy breakfast or a greasy-spoon classic, Sze’s go-to order reflects a sophisticated yet comforting balance of sweet and savory flavors. He routinely orders a crunchy baguette layered with a thoughtful combination of honey, apple, and brie. The contrast of the crisp, crackling crust of the bread against the creamy richness of the brie, brightened by the crisp bite of apple and the floral sweetness of honey, sets an energetic and inspiring tone for the rest of his culinary itinerary.
With breakfast concluded, Sze transitions from consumer to culinary creator as he makes his next stop at The Meat Hook. More than just a casual errand, this visit is a crucial professional connection: The Meat Hook serves as Wenwen’s trusted meat supplier. Sze’s relationship with the butchery goes beyond mere logistics, as he personally browses the cases to secure specialty cuts of steak and dry-aged short ribs intended for his own dinner preparations later that evening. The stop highlights the symbiotic relationships that sustain New York City’s vibrant independent restaurant scene, where local chefs rely on specialized artisans who share their commitment to quality, provenance, and exceptional sourcing.
After managing his provisions, Sze’s craving for casual innovation leads him to Chrissy’s Pizza, a beloved local spot where chef Chris Hansell has spent years refining the art of the New York-style pie. Unlike the hurried, generic slices found on countless street corners across the city, Hansell’s pies are the result of meticulous, long-term experimentation with dough and fermentation. Sze orders a whole, crispy pie, gravitating specifically toward the jalapeño and garlic creation. According to the Wenwen chef, the pie achieves a masterclass in balance, offering precise proportions of heat, pungency, and savory depth, all resting atop a doughy, beautifully developed yeasted crust that showcases the baker’s dedication to craft.
The final chapter of Sze’s day off takes him across borough lines to Flushing, Queens, where he visits Maxi’s Noodle 2. For Sze, this destination is about much more than just a satisfying meal—it is a deeply emotional connection to his roots. The restaurant serves the nostalgic, comforting Chinese food that he has profoundly craved ever since leaving Taiwan. Upon arrival, Sze connects with owner Maxi Lau-O’Keefe, who invites him behind the scenes to learn the intricate technique behind her iconic wontons. Stuffed with a harmonious mixture of fresh shrimp and pork before being expertly and tightly folded, the wontons represent a culinary standard of excellence.
Attempting to master the technique firsthand, Sze is quickly humbled by the complex, precise folding process required to produce Lau-O’Keefe’s signature dumplings, a reminder of the years of muscle memory and dedication that authentic home-style cooking demands. Having tried his hand at the craft, Sze settles into a comforting bowl of soup featuring thin, resilient noodles made with duck eggs, swimming alongside those classic handmade wontons and a rich, deeply savory beef soup. The meal serves as a grounding, soul-satisfying conclusion to a day dedicated to exploring the diverse textures, traditions, and innovative spirits that define the New York City food landscape.
Food enthusiasts and home cooks interested in witnessing Sze’s culinary journey firsthand can watch the most recent episode of Chef’s Day Off, which captures his stops at these favorite neighborhood bakeries, butcher shops, pizzerias, and noodle houses across the city.
